Yohji Yamamoto’s men’s collections arrived in Paris in 1981, after the Tokyo designer launched his namesake line in 1976. His unstructured suits defined the menswear silhouettes of the 80s and 90s, and his dramatic runway shows contributed to a growing reputation as an avant-garde designer – though he prefers the title of “dressmaker” despite its humble connotations. Known for his masterful fusion of traditional Japanese dress and Western daywear, Yamamoto’s billowing trousers and jackets pair textured, draped fabrics with crisp button-downs, elongated knits, and t-shirts with arresting graphics. His voluminous garments can be combined to create flowing styles that are offbeat, comfortable, and strangely elegant.
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