Danish brothers Julius and Victor Juul’s monochromatic Scandinavian aesthetic flows from an avant-garde mythology that relies as profoundly on utilitarian intricacies as it does custom-developed materials. Pushing the boundaries of creative expression since its first showing at Milan Fashion Week SS17, the Copenhagen-based label Heliot Emil—its name pays homage to the brothers’ great grandfather—explores the lines between form and function through experiments in futuristic streetwear. Designer Julius Juul anatomizes a plethora of artistically provocative and thought-provoking themes, précising each collection into a maelstrom of innovative sartorial conceptualizations. Atypical high-tech textiles are sought from across the globe, especially customized materials from Japan, before they are dispatched to Italy, France, and Portugal for an irreproachably-tailored final construction. Military-inspired buckles, straps, and zippered minutiae bring functionality to vests and jackets that are counterbalanced by multifaceted layering and asymmetric designs. Panelled lounge pants and jersey staples are adorned with the minimalist “HE” logo and accentuate Heliot Emil’s deep understanding of luxurious comfort within an alternative fashion milieu.
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