How Frieze Seoul Overtook Fashion Week

Frieze, the international art fair that began in London in 2003, has grown into a global juggernaut, bringing together galleries from around the world to showcase and sell high-profile art. In 2022, Frieze Seoul teamed up with the Korea International Art Fair (KIAF) for a five-year contract, turning the entire Coex—an exhibition and convention center located in Gangnam—into a gallery hub. Global heavyweights like Gagosian, Hauser & Wirth, David Zwirner, Pace, Perrotin, and Thaddaeus Ropac lined up alongside Korean powerhouses like Arario Gallery, Gallery Hyundai, Kukje Gallery, and PKM Gallery.

Frieze Seoul’s debut in 2022 was nothing short of a phenomenon. The total transaction value reportedly hovered around a whopping 600 billion KRW, more than ten times that of KIAF. Luxury brands seized the moment too, with after-parties, pop-ups, and exhibitions, igniting a parallel fashion movement. The Seoul government jumped on board, syncing Seoul Fashion Week with Frieze to amplify the global attention. Rebranding this stretch of time as Seoul Art Week, the city was packed with public museum exhibitions, art festivals, and even events for those who weren’t there to buy art, turning the week into a nonstop celebration. Adding to the spectacle were major Korean art events like the Gwangju and Busan Biennales, which also kicked off during the same period.

But while Frieze was basking in the limelight, Seoul Fashion Week, which ran from September 3 to 7, was having a harder time keeping up. Even with K-pop sensations like NewJeans as official ambassadors, many of the most internationally recognized Korean brands were missing from the lineup. (It says a lot that almost none of the Korean brands currently stocked on SSENSE are on the official SFW schedule.) As Korean media scrambled to cover Frieze, social feeds were flooded with the coolest events taking place in Seoul’s trendiest districts—Hannam, Seongsu, and Cheongdam—far from the official Seoul Fashion Week venue at Dongdaemun Design Plaza (DDP).

How did Frieze overtake Fashion Week in Seoul? The answer is in the details.

Frieze Seoul kicked off in grand style with Pharrell and G-Dragon’s collaboration event Nothing But a G Thang: G-Dragon’s Art and Archive, at Paradise City Hotel. Through Pharrell’s global art content platform JOOPITER, founded in 2022, GD unveiled his extensive collection of art that he’s been accumulating for years. GD is known for drawing inspiration from his art collection to compose songs and has also been actively involved in curating exhibitions for his own brand, PEACEMINUSONE.

The auction featured dozens of pieces, including works by renowned Korean artist Kwon Oh-sang and Robert Rauschenberg, alongside paintings and objects created by GD himself. The event attracted high-profile attendees such as actor Lee Jung-jae and abstract artist Josh Sperling, with rapper Pusha T adding to the star power at the after-party.

A private party and exhibition followed at Daelim Museum near Gyeongbokgung Palace, where attendees could view the art pieces up for auction. Korean fashion brands also played a role in this collaboration with JOOPITER. PAF created limited-edition merchandise for the Daelim Museum exhibition, including caps, T-shirts, and watches embroidered with the word “Joopiter,” which quickly sold out.

Nigo, Pharrell’s friend of over 20 years, also made his way to Frieze. His brand HUMAN MADE opened its first flagship store in Seongsu, and the celebratory dinner party’s guest list included Pharrell, BLACKPINK’s Jennie, Taeyang, Seventeen’s Vernon, LE SSERAFIM, and Loco. One fashion editor remarked, “It was so fresh and exciting to see Pharrell’s global crew gather in Seoul, visiting each other’s shows and displaying their friendships, much like the energy you’d expect during Paris Fashion Week.” Pharrell kept busy throughout the week, attending various events, including the film preview of Gabriel Moses’s short film “ALL DAY I DREAM ABOUT SPORT,” the adidas friends and family dinner, an appearance on the radio show of Wendy from Red Velvet, and a dinner party with Nigo and KAWS.

As Frieze Week reached its peak, young local brands seized the moment, determined not to miss out on it. Exclusive collaborations, captivating catering, eye-popping new season launches, and the opening of flagship stores all collided in a perfect storm.

Korean mainstay brand Pushbutton made a triumphant return with its first runway show in six years. The show was attended by designer Park Seung-gun’s close friend, actress Gong Hyo-jin, along with Eric Nam and ATEEZ. Meanwhile, We11done rolled out a capsule collection with Peaches, a lifestyle brand rooted in car culture. Outside its flagship store, vintage Ferraris were on display, while signature items like heart-cut skirts, denim pieces, and outerwear worn by Hailey Bieber were reimagined for the FW24 collection.

Andersson Bell also made waves, unveiling a collaboration with Berlin-based Ottolinger at Empty Seoul in Seongsu. Drawing inspiration from racing culture, the space featured sporty looks like car-printed tees, contrast piping jersey dresses, and nylon contrast parachute cargo pants. At the same venue, a special collaboration between Juntae Kim and adidas Originals celebrated Frieze Seoul. Juntae Kim launched its FW24 collection PUNKOUTRE, alongside a playful reinterpretation of iconic adidas Originals products. “During Frieze, it was great to have the opportunity to meet various famous international and independent artists. It was especially meaningful to present a custom piece to Pharrell,” founding designer Kim told SSENSE.

Meanwhile, Seoul’s trend of modern, understated classics remained strong. Recto, a brand known for its refined tailoring and luxurious materials, held a presentation at its new flagship store in Hannam, in collaboration with artist Kang Woo-rim. Jiyongkim, a 2024 LVMH Prize semifinalist, also hosted a hybrid exhibition and presentation in Seongsu. Kim’s signature sun-bleached fabrics adorned the building’s exterior, while inside, visitors could explore his artwork, innovative techniques, and the FW24 and SS24 collections alongside various collaboration pieces.

One of the reasons Frieze Seoul shone so brightly was the backing of global brands with the capital and manpower to elevate the art-fashion crossover. Saint Laurent transformed its Seoul flagship into a new cultural space under the curation of creative director Anthony Vaccarello. The occasion marked the Asian debut of Portrait of a Collection : Selected Works from the Pinault Collection, which featured approximately 60 contemporary artworks. Among the artists, Yum Jihye was the sole Korean participant. BLACKPINK’s Rosé, Saint Laurent’s global ambassador, made an appearance.

LOEWE joined in the Frieze festivities by presenting a special exhibition by artist Jaeiik Lee, a finalist of the LOEWE FOUNDATION Craft Prize, at Casa LOEWE Seoul. The space was filled with curated art pieces personally selected by creative director Jonathan Anderson. Meanwhile, Chanel partnered with the Yeol Foundation to host an exhibition celebrating Korean artisans in honor of Frieze Seoul Week. Notably, star designer and Frieze Seoul committee member Teo Yang oversaw the curation and directly collaborated on the featured works.

Of course, with all this activity, there are bound to be some critics. Some argued that the event has turned into more of a “fashion circus” than an art fair, overshadowed by celebrity appearances and high-profile brands. But if anything, the haters are a sign that Frieze Seoul has successfully drawn global attention to the city, cementing itself as the city’s premier international cultural event.

Even beyond the official Frieze lineup, there’s a cascade of events—from LEMAIRE’s flagship movie night to a listening party hosted by Ojas founder Devon Turnbull—all unfolding against the Frieze backdrop (and trying to capitalize on the commotion). With Frieze Seoul already making waves, anticipation for next year’s edition is palpable. In a climate where the global economy and the art market have shown signs of fatigue, the event defied expectations. Caitlin Donovan, head of global sales at JOOPITER, echoed this sentiment when she told SSENSE, “Seoul’s appreciation for art and culture led to an impressive turnout of some of the most respected faces in art, design, and fashion, with bidding activity reflecting that energy.” Just like Seoul itself—constantly reinventing and staying ahead of the curve—Frieze is set to keep breaking new ground, powered by the city’s ever-evolving spirit of innovation.