Reading Materials with
Reginald Moore feat.
The Row
Menswear FW21

One Book Collector’s Archive, Tailored to Dance

  • Interview: Durga Chew-Bose
  • Photography: Thomas McCarty

As ever, the FW21 menswear collection from The Row provides a sharp, accommodating variety of elegance. The lines...move. The tailoring gestures towards ease. The palette is uniformly subtractive and rich. The coats fall with cocooning jurisdiction and the ratios—from big shoulders to tapered hems—receive the wearer: a handsomeness that allows for flight and idle time, both.

Inspired by these designs, we invited one of our favorite book collectors to curate a selection of his archive that speaks to The Row’s timeless sense of control. Quite naturally, a theme emerged: dance. From pioneering choreographer and activist, Alvin Ailey, to the matriarch of modern dance, Martha Graham, we chart a brief (sometimes literary, but mostly personal) history of the performing art, visually interpreted by photographer Thomas McCarty and stylist Jason Rider.

“I’m an only child, so my love of reading started there,” says Reginald Moore, the Chattanooga-based book collector, whose Instagram account has become, to some extent, a digital archive of his remarkable, decades-long project. “My mother, she’s a reader, too. There were always books around. My father always gave me money to buy books and my mother always made sure I took care of them.”

In his early 20s, Moore—who grew up in Charleston—would regularly venture to Chattanooga to visit a rare bookstore, discovering its trove of Southern literature, “Faulkner and all that kind of stuff,” while also gaining an understanding of how to identify first editions based on each publisher’s cataloguing process. His passion, he says, “snowballed from there.”

Moore’s collection isn’t limited to books. Postcards, vinyls, additional materials from Criterion Collection releases, magazines—both contemporary and collectible—as well as literary journals, occupy considerable real estate in his archive. Like a 1965 issue of Jazz featuring an essay by Amiri Baraka, then known as Leroi Jones, about Archie Shepp and John Coltrane. Or an April 1971 issue of Harper’s Bazaar with China Machado gracing the cover, photographed by Bill King. There’s more. Sonia Sanchez poetry, with art by Emory Douglas. Vintage issues of Show magazine, with articles by James Baldwin. Odes to Edna Lewis. Remembrances of David Wojnarowicz. Prints by Roy DeCarava.

Moore’s curation is prodigious with a field of vision that acknowledges certain trends in publishing, design, cover stars. One post on his Instagram, for instance, includes various recent magazine covers profiling Moses Sumney. Another one documents Michaela Coel’s ascent. There’s also a post that pays tribute to Agnès Varda on two separate covers of Interview magazine, five decades apart. While Moore is a patron of print media, his act of retrieval isn’t merely nostalgic, but comprehensive and refreshingly coincident with the times. He stays unguarded and porous, and most of all, is squarely delighted by new voices, just as much as by those who came before.

Over the phone, Moore tells me how he considers his collection a “working library;” meaning he actually reads the books he has amassed, totalling somewhere in the thousands.

Durga Chew-Bose

Reginald Moore

How many, approximately?

In 2005, my cousin who was pregnant, was at my house. She had nothing to do, so she counted my books. It was something like four thousand. But now, it would be really hard to say. Too many. I’ve run out of space.

Which author or subject would you say you have the most multiples of?

James Baldwin, Toni Morrison, and, say, Fran Lebowitz. Of the same book, I’ll have the uncorrected proof, the signed first edition, the UK edition and then I’ll have a paperback edition.

Of your collection, whose author photo reflects the most effortless style?

That would have to be Sontag, who claimed that she didn’t like to be photographed but you can look at her and tell that she did. Truman Capote has some great ones by [Henri] Cartier-Bresson.

When we first spoke, you said something interesting about photographers and what their work smells like to you. Can you elaborate? What about, for example, Peter Hujar?

Oatmeal. And I don’t mean blandless. I mean its simplicity. It’s nourishing simplicity.

Collier Schorr?

The photos are so rich, like an icing. Like icing on a sugar cookie.

John Edmonds?

John’s colors are so brown and earthy, and nutty looking, that’s why I probably think of cinnamon and nutmeg when I look at his work.

Irving Penn?

A refreshing cold bowl of something out of the refrigerator.

Tyler Mitchell?

A fruit cocktail. A sweet smell to it.

Featured In This Image: The Row sweater. Top Image: Model wears The Row shirt, The Row turtleneck and The Row jeans.

The Fred Astaire Dance Book by Lyle Kenyon Engel

Fred Astaire has an allure in my family because my maternal grandfather courted my grandmother by singing her a Fred Astaire song. [My grandfather] was a really thin, wiry guy and so, Fred Astaire’s name has always been thrown around in my family, even if my grandfather couldn’t dance.

Can you dance?

Uh, no. [Laughs] But you know, I’m drawn to reading about the things I could never do. Like I could never dance, or sing, or act.

(A couple weeks after our call, Reginald texts me a photo of his grandfather, Arthur Charles “AC” Browder. In it, AC is standing on what looks like a bridge, wearing a straw boater hat just like Fred; tipping it forward just like Fred. It’s a beautiful snapshot. The kind of family memory that is a record of where one comes from—beyond legacy—and linked instead to a story about the lightness of first love.)

Featured In This Image: The Row shirt and The Row jeans.

Revelations: The Autobiography of Alvin Ailey by A. Peter Bailey

I went to New York when I was 16 to see Ailey, but at the time, I was obsessed with Robbie Williams, and I went to see him, too, at TRL with Carson Daly. And we were all outside and we couldn’t wait to see Robbie, and now that I’m thinking about it, this story has nothing to do with dance! Anyways, this guy outside told us he knew Robbie Williams and I believed him because he had a British accent. And I guess my Alvin Ailey story has turned into a story about Robbie Williams!

Featured In This Image: The Row trench coat.

Judith Jamison, Aspects of a Dancer by Olga Maynard

I just remember PBS was showing this old clip of Judith doing the choreography of “Cry” and I became obsessed with her. First of all, I loved her short hair. She looked like people I knew, but was doing something that the people I knew could not do. I mean, what would the exterior or interior life of dance look like without Judith Jamison? I do remember that in one of those books, there’s a story about Judith trying to make macaroni and cheese like her mother, but she couldn’t do it. Can you believe that a macaroni and cheese story is my takeaway from a Judith Jamison book?!

Featured In This Image: The Row trench coat.

Private Domain: An Autobiography by Paul Taylor

When we talk about dance, his name is always on the back of our throats but it’s never on the tip of our tongues.

Blood Memory by Martha Graham

My introduction to Martha Graham was probably through Madonna. I’m pretty sure there’s an issue of Harper’s Bazaar and Madonna’s on the cover, and on the inside she’s dressed like Martha Graham, wrapped in black material all around her. But also, I have so many memories associated to Martha Graham. This one time, I was out to dinner—not at a fancy restaurant, because there was a TV involved. And I happened to look up and Jeopardy! was on, and the question had something to do with Martha Graham, and I just remember looking up and seeing a clip of her and thinking Wow. Nobody else could go off like her. It’s just a beautiful thing.

  • Interview: Durga Chew-Bose
  • Photography: Thomas McCarty
  • Styling: Jason Rider / M+A World Group
  • Model: Dwyer Halliburton / Ricky Michiels
  • Hair: Nero / Camera Club
  • Makeup: Sena Murahashi
  • Date: September 29th, 2021