TEN TRENCH COATS READY TO
BATTLE THE COLD

Designed during the First World War, Burberry trench coats made use of Thomas Burberry’s proprietary cotton gabardine fabric which was revolutionary in that it was waterproof as well as lightweight. Gabardine became a defining quality of trench coats, putting Burberry at the center of the coat’s development and growth. To this day, the label’s beige trench coats are archetypal and synonymous with function, style, and heritage.

The beauty of modern designer trench coats is that there are so many different styles. Take this understated Jil Sander iteration, for example. Retaining the classic shape and core features like the belted waist and cuffs, it offers a pared-back vision of the style revolving around a clean silhouette that works in all scenarios.

With reduced detailing, Birrot’s take on the trench coat is stripped down to the essentials in order to emphasize the beauty in the utilitarian. Easy press-stud fastenings in black punctuate the khaki finish while an oversize belt adds drama without straying too far from the trench coat’s default settings.

Yohji Yamamoto once said: “Black is modest and arrogant at the same time. Black is lazy and easy—but mysterious. But above all black says this: ‘I don’t bother you—don’t bother me.’” This idea is emblematic of the designer’s overarching aesthetic, but particularly this Y-3 black trench coat. Technical features like bungee drawstrings sit alongside classic hallmarks like storm flaps to the chest and back to make this design a study into both the history and future potential of the humble trench coat.

Canada Goose winter parkas usually side with more modern aesthetics—furry hoods, technical shells, and lightweight down linings—but FW23 sees the label take an unusual look at more classic shapes. With the help of South Korean brand Rokh, Canada Goose presents a rare down-filled trench coat. Added insulation raises the functionality of the coat, which doesn’t skimp on sharp styling, either.

The beauty of men’s Burberry trench coats is that they effortlessly leap over the formal style hurdles that so many others cannot. As well as being protective shells for fall and winter weather, they’re refined enough to be styled up for events or dressed down for simple daily errands—the Inspector Gadget of coats.

To take something so familiar and subvert it without losing any of its original charm is no easy feat. It’s really what Isabel Marant has been doing for decades, though. Here, the excess fabric of a double-breasted construction can be cinched in with a toggled drawstring. It’s an incongruously technical addition to a mostly classic design that elevates it, ensuring that it stands out.

Hailing from Seoul, LOW CLASSIC is one of the most exciting Korean fashion brands of the moment. Offering up a dose of restrained prep with eye-catching twists, it tracks that LOW CLASSIC knows where to take the trench coat. Minimal detailing throughout the piece comes to an emphatic end at the double-layered collar, which is just enough to bring a sense of playfulness to the design.

Danish label By Malene Birger’s version of the luxury black trench coat is all about proportion. The flared arms and body demonstrate the brand's affinity for tailoring while giving the piece serious character despite the all-black, detail-reduced finish.

Cut from wool and cashmere, this Tiger of Sweden trench is a reassuringly heavy winter coat. Features like a hidden button placket and detachable contrast collar offer a refreshingly modern look at the blueprint of the designer trench coat. These contemporary touches don’t outweigh versatility, though, thanks to a midnight navy finish.