THE BEST RAW DENIM SHOWS THAT IT NEVER REALLY LEFT
Raw denim fell out of the limelight in the last decade, but names like AURALEE, Maison Margiela, and more are bringing renewed attention to the category.
Throughout the early 2010s, raw denim had lofty status. Raised to the level of unhealthy obsession by scores of #menswear guys, raw denim jeans existed at the center of their own subculture fed by endless Reddit threads that compared fades, whiskers, and wash tactics. Then, as if it never happened, the desire for rigid, indigo-dyed jeans waned, with retro stonewashes and rare vintage denim taking the fore. But, in 2024, the tides appear to be swelling again, ready for an emphatic comeback with names like Maison Margiela, AURALEE, and others breathing new life into the raw denim category while OG brands like A.P.C. and Nudie Jeans continue as they always have.
What is raw denim?
For the uninitiated, raw denim does what it says on the tin. Raw denim has yet to go through any type of wash process which would give the material its normal range of color or distressing. As such, raw denim jeans are usually much more rigid than washed jeans, making them particularly prevalent in workwear. As is the case with most workwear, though, raw denim has bled into the everyday wardrobe of the style-conscious. There are many reasons for this, but one of the central qualities of raw denim is that it ages uniquely over time. As unwashed denim is worn, the indigo dye bleeds, leaving lighter sections in its wake. Over years, a pair of raw denim jeans will gain singular personality, with the shape of a phone, wallet, and keys etched into the pockets, and varying levels of distress at the knees, thighs, and seat.
How to wash raw denim
Washing raw denim is fraught with dos and don’ts. Raw denim Reddit is a battleground of differing opinions, but there are some rules of thumb to keep in mind as accepted lore. Washing raw denim causes the indigo dye to run, effectively locking in fades, so doing it correctly massively impacts the way they look. First, waiting as long as possible in between washes will create the best raw denim fades; some believe that raw denim should never be washed, but generally washing twice or three times a year will keep the jeans healthy and smelling acceptable—throw raw denim in the freezer in between washes to kill bacteria. Second, raw denim should be washed inside out in cold water. Raw denim isn’t preshrunk, so washing or drying at high temperatures can cause a pair to completely change sizes. Third, air dry flat.
Featured In This Image: A.P.C. jeans
Parisian label A.P.C. has long been a main character in the world of raw denim. Offering the kind of rigidity and dye quality one might expect of authentic Japanese workwear of yore but in a range of contemporary cuts, A.P.C. represents one of the best places to begin a love affair with raw denim.
Featured In This Image: CARSON WACH jeans
While most of the best workwear brands have a long history in tow, Los Angeles label CARSON WACH only dates back to 2017. Since then, though, the brand has garnered attention for pieces like the Indigo 333 Jeans, which perfectly embody the pursuit of perfection. Using heavy 13-oz denim, this pair features a wide, straight-leg fit for maximum versatility.
Featured In This Image: AURALEE jeans
AURALEE’s star has been rising steadily since it was founded in 2015. Hailing from Tokyo, the brand is in the perfect position to reach back into its home country’s legacy of indigo mastery while also reframing the style. The Indigo Hard Twist 5P Jeans are cut from high-end rigid denim but boast an unusual cropped boot cut and creases to each leg.
Featured In This Image: Maison Margiela jeans
What begins as a standard pair of raw denim jeans becomes something altogether more experimental at the hands of Maison Margiela. The bottom half of this pair features a waxed coating for an eye-catching finish.
Featured In This Image: Nudie Jeans jeans
Every pair of Nudie Jeans jeans is made in Italy from high-end—often heavyweight—cotton. The Lean Dean cut offers a slim fit and a sleek finish with minimal detailing throughout. Cut from 11.5-oz organic cotton, it’s a pair of jeans with some reassuring weight, but not enough to become restrictive.
Featured In This Image: Maison Margiela jeans
Raw denim for women is often overlooked, but there’s a world of exciting cuts and designs out there. Take this pair of pleated jeans by Maison Margiela, which has a super wide-leg construction that drops from a waistband with multiple ruffled pleats. Made from 12-oz denim, it’s a seriously heavy pair of jeans.
Featured In This Image: Aya Muse jeans
In big ’90s style, Aya Muse’s Hyn Jeans feature a wide-leg boot cut shape in dark indigo. A defining visual detail is the undulating waistband, which shines when worn with an equally nostalgic crop top.
Featured In This Image: TOTEME jeans
TOTEME’s super-understated refinement puts it in good stead to make premium raw denim for women. The Twisted Seam Jeans—as the name suggests—feature an outseam that turns inward, effectively causing a gentle taper to the silhouette.
Featured In This Image: Jean Paul Gaultier jeans
Jean Paul Gaultier’s playful takes have put the brand back into the zeitgeist. Denim plays a major role in this, with trompe l’œil denim becoming a signature. Printed facades aside, ‘The Cuff Denim’ instead looks to a real, physical subversion with gargantuan turnups that run all the way up to the knee.
- Date: January 22, 2023
