Photographer Peter Ash Lee Brings Korean Tradition and Style to the World

The guest list is eclectic, ranging from Korean American musician and bestselling author of Crying in H Mart, Michelle Zauner (of Japanese Breakfast), to renowned Korean actress Ye-seul Han and actor Chan-young Yoon from the Netflix series All of Us Are Dead. Also in attendance are representatives from global fashion brands, models, and magazine editors united in their support for Lee’s debut in Korea.

Focusing on the haenyeo (해녀), or sea women, the Korean Canadian photographer’s work captured the unique cultural heritage of his homeland. His journey to document the haenyeo culture is an extension of his book, released in January, titled The Last Mermaid; a project that began serendipitously during a trip. “In 2018, I embarked on a personal photography project driven by a desire to reconnect with my Korean heritage and culture,” he explains. “I explored various subjects, ultimately drawn to the beautiful history of the haenyeo, female divers in Korea.”

The haenyeo, inscribed on the UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage list in 2016, refers to a community of women on Jeju Island, South Korea. These women, some in their 80s, dive to depths of up to ten meters without using oxygen masks, to harvest abalones, sea urchins, and other shellfish to sustain their livelihoods. “My interactions with Koryoujin—the inspiration behind the title The Last Mermaid—and her mother were incredibly enriching,” Lee says. “They graciously shared their time and stories with me. Initially, my intention was simply to document their lives through photography. Still, I’ve since recognized the power of a book to celebrate and amplify their narrative, offering a platform to raise awareness and appreciation for their culture and challenges.” Lee plans to donate a portion of the proceeds from this book and exhibition to the Haenyeo Association, which still uses outdated equipment.

Years have passed, but Lee still vividly remembers his time with the haenyeo women. “What resonated with me most was the overwhelming kindness and warmth shown by all the haenyeos,” he says. “They embraced me as family, demonstrating a level of care and affection reminiscent of my grandmother. It was a profoundly moving and unforgettable experience that has left a lasting impression on me.”

Unfortunately, the haenyeo culture is facing extinction. Even the haenyeo themselves sense that their era is ending. “As I delved deeper into their world, I became increasingly aware of the threats they face due to global warming,” says Lee. The presence of haenyeo, first recorded in historical documents in 503 AD, now amounts to roughly 3,000 individuals as of 2023. Those age 70 and above constitute 2,090, accounting for 64.8% of the total.

Koryoujin, the haenyeo herself and the inspiration behind the title The Last Mermaid, visited the opening night with her family and shared some wishes for the future of haenyeo. “My grandmother and mother are also haenyeo,” she says. “Continuing the lineage of haenyeo through generations, three generations are now working in the sea. I hope many people learn about haenyeo, and perhaps someone would aspire to become one. I wish for this integral part of Korean culture to continue without interruption. This is why I am holding my ground.”

Lee’s efforts to showcase the culture of his homeland have been a red thread throughout his fashion projects. For instance, for the artwork for Japanese Breakfast’s album Jubilee, Lee shot on sets featuring gotgam (곶감), a traditional Korean dried fruit, as a backdrop. “The set designer brought boxes of persimmons to my studio, and we decorated the space with them, creating a beautiful backdrop. Not only was it an honor to work with such an incredible musician, but her book, Crying in H Mart, left a profound impact on me,” he says.

A recent highlight in Lee’s career, as he sees it, is a photoshoot for American Vogue in collaboration with Korean hair artist Gabe Sin. “Gabe Sin creates these mesmerizing hair pieces inspired by an ancient Korean tradition called najeonchilgi, which involves intricate mother-of-pearl inlays,” Lee says. “This opportunity to infuse Korean craftsmanship with modern fashion storytelling creates images that I find very exciting.”

As the demand for photographers with a global mindset increases in Korea, Lee has emerged as a prime candidate. Now, he visits once a month for various media and advertising shoots. The global popularity of K-pop and Korean dramas have also spurred his trips. Nowadays, when it comes to photographing diverse Asian talents, Lee has become the first choice. His portfolio boasts the likes of Youn Yuh-jung, who won the 2021 Academy Award for Best Supporting Actress for her role in Minari, Greta Lee from Past Lives, as well as BLACKPINK, BTS, and many others.

“Working with K-pop stars has been an incredibly fortunate experience for me,” he says. “Their influence has played a pivotal role in fostering global Asian representation, with their music resonating across the world and their presence extending to fashion campaigns and ambassador roles. I am deeply grateful for the platform K-pop has provided, allowing us to be seen on a global scale.”

Lee also serves as the editor-in-chief of Burdock magazine, which celebrates Asian artists. From a young age, Lee was passionate about magazines, print media, and fashion photography. However, he didn’t see enough representation of Asian figures in mainstream media. “It was disheartening to rarely see Asian photographers featured in the magazines I avidly consumed. This lack of representation made me question my place in the industry and whether I’d have opportunities to shoot for the publications I admired.”

Through Burdock, Lee is dedicated to inspiring young creators and he continues to work diligently toward this goal. “As long as I’m engaged in creative endeavors, whether within or beyond photography, I feel fulfilled and content, knowing that I’m living authentically. So my hope is just to keep learning and growing.”

Parasite director Bong Joon-ho said at the Academy Awards, “The most personal is the most creative.” I asked Lee how his own personal narrative inspires his creative work today. “Growing up, I grappled with a sense of not fully belonging—I didn’t feel Korean enough to be accepted in Korea, nor Canadian American enough to be embraced in North America,” he says. “These experiences fostered insecurities and a feeling of being lost. However, I’ve now come to view my identity not as a weakness but as a strength. It has shaped my unique perspective and aesthetic, drawing from the rich tapestry of my personal life experiences. This journey of self-discovery has empowered me to embrace my identity and find strength in my individuality.”