Chicago-natives Supreme Cuts’ Mike Perry and Austin Kjeultes continue to cultivate their own specific post-R&B sound; their 2012 EP Trouble, released under Small Plates Records, took from dubstep and bass music with a heavy percussion influence, drawing upon R&B and their hometown's sonic influences. Since their first full-length album Whispers in the Dark released under Dovecote Records this summer, the duo has gone on to make a name for themselves with the collaborative Chrome Lips LP, with rapper Haleek Maul, and stand-out mixes for The Fader - released in July – and, more recently, Dazed & Confused.
Supreme Cuts’ SSENSE mix opens with the subtle, ethereal offering Trouble, taken from their acclaimed debut EP, that slowly builds into their signature eerie sound with textural layers of winding instrumentals and barely-there drum samples, before unfolding into fragmented R&B vocals courtesy of Issue’s Trail of Tears. True to form, the mix changes pace, energized with heavier basslines and the drop of Physical Therapy's remix of their own Val Venus single, and littered with intricate percussion and syrupy piano riffs – a nod to their Chicago roots courtesy of Juke legend Traxman.
Supreme Cuts Trouble
Issue Trail of Tears
Supreme Cuts Val Venus - Physical Therapy Remix
Main Attrakionz Love is Life (Inst. Produced by Supreme Cuts)
Future Neva End
Jeremiah Rated R
Supreme Cuts Whispers in the Dark - Supreme Cuts Edit
Answers from designer Alejandro Ingelmo, Mackage’s Elisa Dahan, FALLON’s Dana Lorenz, Mr. Hare’s Marc Hare, rapper Iggy Azalea, Nguzunguzu’s Asma Maroof, dream-pop band Superhumanoids and Phil Canty aka MORRI$.
Wallpaper* Magazine has released a gallery of behind-the-scenes images of the venues from the recent Spring/Summer 13 womenswear collections. Discover the venues of key collections in our edited gallery with notes on the art direction and locations of each show.
KENZO // At the Maison du Judo in Paris, KENZO’s Humberto Leon and Carol Lim recreated their jungle inspirations. The clean lines and light wooden structure of the runway and surrounding bleachers lent a modern aesthetic to the space, contrasted by the bright colors and exotic floral graphics featured across the runway and its digital screen backdrop.
Rick Owens // In contrast to his Fall 12 show’s firey backdrop, Rick Owens’ Spring 13 presentation took an opposing approach, as soft masses of soapsuds fell from the ceiling - a quixotic complement to Owens’ romantic collection of ethereal draped gowns and flowing silhouettes. The falling soapsuds eventually grew into a pillowy mountain at the head of the runway, organically creating a new backdrop as the show progessed.
Alexander McQueen // Building on her inspiration from honey bees, Alexander McQueen’s Sarah Burton incorporated a honeycomb print across her architectural, avant-garde looks, the runway itself and a custom-made video by British filmmaker John Maybury that acted as the backdrop to the Spring 13 show. Together with John Gosling’s buzzing soundtrack, the whimsical collection and the video – which emulated elements of Tokyo’s Kabuki theatre widescreen resolution – Burton’s honey bees were effortlessly brought to life in a typically extravagent way.
Paul Smith // Choosing to highlight the sleek modernity of Central St Martins’ Granary building in London, British designer Paul’s Spring 13 show, co-produced by Miller Kavari, offered only minimalist embellishments like simple black benches, a slick white runway and the chrome grid of the lighting structures. Allowing natural sunlight to pour in through the building’s large windows, the show’s setting highlighted Smith’s equally minimalist two-tone looks.
Maison Martin Margiela // Devised in association with Penique Productions, Maison Martin Margiela’s Spring 13 show was set inside the opulent walls of Paris’ Hotel Salomon de Rothschild. True to their typically avant-garde nature, the design team at Margiela chose to cover the walls floor-to-ceiling in slick white plastic, creating an almost unrecognizable space that showcased the Maison’s minimalist, Dada-inspired looks, accompanied by a custom soundtrack from French producer Michel Gaubert. View the making of the show décor?
Chloé // Conceived by London-based production agency, OBO, Clare Waight Keller’s Spring 13 presentation for Chloé was an on-point representation of her collection’s classic, feminine aesthetic. The set itself worked in the house’s signature colors as butter yellow walls surrounded the ivory benches and “beige-rosé” runway, all swathed in natural sunlight that poured in through the huge windows that made up the roof of the Jardins des Tuileries’ Espace Ephemere.
Neil Barrett // Presenting, as usual, effortlessly tailored looks, Neil Barrett’s Spring 13 collection also included oversize, flowing cuts and clean draping – an aesthetic well matched in his runway show, which took place at the Salle Erard in Paris. His almost-entirely black and white collection, punctuated by a solitary shade of powder blue, resonated within the monochromatic set, which featured a large-scale installation of images from Barrett’s Spring 13 lookbook.
Givenchy // Riccardo Tisci’s Spring 13 presentation took place at the Hall Guy Moquet in Paris, a sizeable space that was re-worked to match Tisci’s rather delicate collection. Straying from his famously dark aesthetic, Tisci’s light palette, fluid construction and sheer fabrications were somehow entirely at home within the graphic shapes and clean lines of the hall – minimalist benches surrounded a huge red structure that housed a mahogany organ. The organ’s inventor, Henri Bouffard likewise provided the show’s score.
Jil Sander // In line with the label’s iconic minimalist aesthetic, Jil Sander’s Spring 13 runway show was held at the Via Beltrami in Milan, where set and lighting designer Thierry Dreyfus raised the floors and lowered the ceiling to create a compact, modern space. Simple benches and a wide runway illuminated by Dreyfus’ low-hanging light fixtures provided the finishing touches, accentuating Sander’s bright palette and modern collection.