Rejina Pyo Fall 14
Rejina Pyo operates through quiet contrasts. The Seoul-born, London-based designer makes clothes that are colorful, but never obnoxious; playful, but thoughtful.
The dynamism of her namesake line, launched in Spring 13, has roots in a 2011 Central Saint Martins graduate collection that won editors’ attention, fashion industry awards, and a position as first assistant designer to Roksanda Ilincic. Models draped in fluid swaths of color wore totemic charred wood sculptures inspired by Isamu Noguchi – a twist on “wearable art.” The art world remains an inspiration; Pyo cites abstract paintings and the work of Ellsworth Kelly as perennial influences. It shows in her vivid colorblocking and geometric forms: a dimensional sash draped across the back of an overcoat, a parallelogram motif repeated throughout Fall 14. Yet the relaxed femininity of pleated skirts, tailored trousers, and demure button-downs has a softness to balance their punchy colors and graphic lines. They’re confident, yet calming.
Like a minimalist painting, Pyo’s pared-back approach says a lot through a little. The effect is intelligent, elegant, and effortless: grace with a touch of excitement.