A specific kind of time travel is in vogue right now: the retro-futurism of the resurrected couture house. Designers at labels with long histories find themselves in a tight balancing act of past and future. On the one hand, there’s the need to engage with the house archive and establish continuity. On the other, the pressure to make classic styles new, and for designers to add their own voices. Add to that the current season’s competing trends of 60s and 70s references and high-tech futurism. Then throw in the paradox of simultaneously honoring a label’s revolutionary values and its signature designs: how to innovate within context? It’s a moment tailor-made for the questioning spirit of Paco Rabanne.