Tinker, Tailor,
Toothpaste Slides

Nicole McLaughlin Has Perfected The Upcycle

  • Interview: Olivia Whittick
  • Illustrations: Skye Oleson-Cormack

Nicole McLaughlin believes in boredom. In fact, she suggests it might be the solution to modern-day malaise—if only we would disconnect our focus from the ambient pull of endless on screen entertainment and let our thoughts wander. These days the most truly inspiring thing you can do is tried and true: stare off into space.

McLaughlin, 28, grew up in New Jersey, the daughter of a mall manager/carpenter and an interior designer—familial influences that converge into a perfect composite. Her eye for design is unrivalled, with an ability to turn almost anything into something, her construction skills sharpen with each new creation, and her work has the aesthetic pop of highly stylized commercial goods. Unfortunately for us, they aren’t for sale. McLaughlin is not a brand. She is an artist and aspiring educator, looking to encourage others to upcycle, repurpose, and exercise creative problem-solving.

With their bright colors, visual punchlines, and absurd sense of functionality, McLaughlin’s designs were practically predestined for virality, perfectly at home on the internet. An athlete—basketball, volleyball, rock-climbing, she’s played it all—Nicole attended university to play varsity lacrosse, first studying speech language pathology before switching to a more creative general media studies program. Upon graduating, she was hired by Reebok as a graphic designer. Struggling with the innate mundanity of a corporate routine, and for the first time bearing witness to just how much waste was involved in large-scale commercial production, McLaughlin picked up a discarded sample and felt the prototype revealing its possibilities. How could she take this form, fated for the garbage bin, break it down, and build it back up again into something else, something that had value again?

McLaughlin received such positive feedback online for her first few projects that she continued to build on new designs. Shortly after, she quit her job at Reebok to pursue being a garbage reinventor full-time. Culling visual cues from her sporty adolescence, Nicole works with thrifted materials from brands beloved for their functionality and versatility, from sportswear staples like Nike, adidas, and Puma, and outdoors/workwear brands like Crocs, Carhartt, and Arc’teryx (for which she was just named the brand’s first-ever Design Ambassador), bringing a necessary levity to the notion of technicality. Most of all, McLaughlin wants to think, to play, to flex her imagination.

“The childish sense of wonder is real. And if I wasn’t doing this, I think it would have gone away,” she tells me. “You have to work to keep this a part of your life.”

Olivia Whittick

Nicole McLaughlin

What was the first official Nicole McLaughlin design that you made?

The first thing I ever made was a bubble wrap puffer vest. I had never made anything and I hot-glued the whole thing. And then I made a shoe out of the IKEA bag. There was an entire storm of IKEA projects shortly after that, which I thought was funny. But the project that really catapulted me into consistently making stuff was this yellow L.L. Bean fleece that I took and turned into a slipper shoe. That was really when I was like, “I want to figure this out.”

You started working on these projects while at Reebok, after a certain level of industry experience. How much of your project was about sustainability at the beginning? Was it spurred by lifting the hood on commercial production?

I knew that the industry was super wasteful, and then I started making these projects, but I didn't fully make the connection. Every night I would go home and moonlight as this other designer. I was getting a satisfaction that I wasn't getting in my day job. I think a lot of creatives experience that—once you're in the cog of the corporate machine, you don't really focus so much on the reason you're creative, and you get home and you're exhausted. When I started doing those personal projects, it brought me back to life. I started thrifting more, because I didn't want to take something brand new, or go to a fabric store and get like a yard of fabric. I wanted to take something that had a hole or stain and then work around that. That became more of the challenge, to take an existing thing that already had a purpose and rearrange it in some way so that it keeps its integrity.

I just read that the secondhand retail market is set to hit $64 billion in the next five years, which is kind of mind blowing. And more and more designers are upcycling deadstock materials. As a long-time thrifter and professional upcycler—why do you think upcycling and thrifting are as popular as they are now? Do you think it's rarity or nostalgia or more of a sustainability concern?

A lot of people have started to thrift and have found things that they otherwise wouldn't. From a design perspective, and specifically a graphic design perspective, there were a lot of things that were made back then that are not made the same way anymore. They were very generous with embroideries, and logo treatments and prints and it’s more expensive nowadays. Fast fashion is just not made as well. So, there’s quality. I do think that there are a lot of people that are considering the climate aspect when they are shopping now. Because of the rise of fast fashion, much more clothes have been made over the past 20 to 30 years. We overproduce, and all that stuff is going to have to circle back or end up in a landfill.

I'm wondering how your work has influenced other areas of your life. I'm picturing your house as a sort of lab filled with your inventions. Does your project branch out into industrial design? Furniture design? Have you invented any, like, kitchen tools?

My studio is an extension of my brain. My brain has just exploded into a room and it's like Flubber—concoctions and inventions and weird things. I actually have a rock-climbing wall in my studio, which makes it even more ridiculous. I've done a couple of projects that will have, like, a toothbrush or chopsticks or a pencil attached, and I’ve found that using these cord holders that go on the back of TVs are perfect for that. If I have a project now and I'm like, “I wonder how I can do that”—I usually have just the right thing to be able to make it.

That's exactly how I picture it.

When anyone comes to my studio, they immediately start looking around and cutting things or playing with things. I'll have like a shoe upper and a bunch of soles and they start messing around. And they're talking to me and not even realizing what they're doing, and I love that. It makes me so happy to create a place for people to come and play and tinker.

The spirit is infectious. I love the idea of constantly being on the look-out for specific objects to solve specific design problems. It seems like such a different way of engaging with the world.

People always ask me if I ever run out of ideas, and it's very much the opposite.

What tools are in your toolkit?

An Exacto knife, some type of adhesive, like hot glue. Scissors. Safety pins. This other specific type of pin. Maybe a needle and thread if I'm feeling saucy. That's the nice thing about not working in a traditional sense, like with patterns. I don't need a lot of stuff to be able to create. I usually use myself as the mannequin and pin things on my body or my foot and see what kind of shapes I can build. I have my tool wall of all the things that I probably could ever need and want, but I always resort back to my basics.

What's the strangest material you've ever worked with?

I used baguettes once to make a vest. Anytime I use food for a project I don't glue it, I don't tape it, I always try to find a way to secure it without ruining the food so I can eat it after. I made this pulley system that went inside of the bread, like rope. And the vest was so heavy, like putting a 50 pound weight on. I got the photo and then it fell apart and then I had sandwiches that weekend.

You’ve done so many collaborations, and you work with a lot of sportswear and performance-wear brands, but then most of your creations are completely absurd, not actually intended to be functional. And that tension seems integral.

I like to have that range. I could only make wearable stuff, or I could only make crazy inventions that wouldn't be practical, but I like to sit somewhere in the middle. I'm not a brand and I dont sell things, it's all art and concepts. Now I’m sharing it with a large number of people, but it was always just for me to exercise my brain.

People will come to me and say “Your stuff isn’t accessible, why can’t I buy it?” But I would argue it's quite accessible, because it's just meant to be an idea. I haven't worked with a brand that is 100% sustainable, that has nothing leftover. They always come to me almost like, “We have a problem, we need help, can you help us use these run off factory scraps?” I’m problem-solving for them—creating a couple pieces for a collection and showing them what’s possible. So both functional and nonfunctional projects serve a purpose.

How much do you tap into a childhood sense of play in your work, or do you feel you are even more playful now?

That’s my favorite question. The childish sense of wonder is real. And if I wasn’t doing this, I think it would have gone away. When you’re in your day-to-day life, working a corporate job, you lose that. You lose a sense of imagination and wanting to play. With these projects, I have rediscovered that feeling, and I never want to lose it. Even if it isn’t always design or art expression, you have to work to keep this a part of your life. Anything you used to do as a kid, which might feel like time you're taking away from your laundry or your taxes, it will make you think differently.

We don’t allow ourselves to get bored, and that’s a really crazy thing.

It’s so important to resist seeing time as something that needs to be productive, to be sold. What do you do if you’re feeling stuck?

I used to get frustrated, but now I usually work through it. We don’t allow ourselves to get bored, and that’s a really crazy thing. Because we have our phones and our computers and Netflix and all these things, our first reaction when we’re bored or when we have time to spare is to go on our phones. It feels unproductive to just sit, but you end up using your brain and imagination. I think it helps a lot to unplug. Get off the phone, just sit there. Think. Close your eyes. Mess around with something that isn’t the thing you are trying to solve.

Are there any projects you’re working on now that are particularly exciting to you?

I’m working on a nonprofit focused more on connecting brands—who have so much excess—and designers and students and universities and people looking for these materials who can't always afford them. This is an ongoing thing—I’ve had so many brands trying to send me packages of scraps and samples, and students writing to me asking for advice on how to get materials for cheap. There’s a very natural connection that needs to be made, and it’s important to me to make those connections. The mindset that people have when they come to my studio is something I want to create—a space for kids and adults to go and play.

  • Interview: Olivia Whittick
  • Illustrations: Skye Oleson-Cormack