Often describing himself as a dressmaker, avant-garde designer Yohji Yamamoto always espoused a certain affinity for womenswear, to that effect, his men's collections explore femininity on multiple occurrences. Regarded as a master by many, Yamamoto explored countless themes and ideas during his illustrious career through his own fashion labels and collaborations. Now in his seventh decade, the artist reflects on his relationship with womenswear, his late father fallen during the second world war, and his formative years in his mother's atelier. Born out of these meditations, Yamamoto's newest label Regulation explores the concept of uniforms and overall ideas of structure, discipline and control. Constructing clothing made to guard and protect the wearer, Yamamoto the dressmaker morphed into a blacksmith of sorts in his later years, welding threads into protective layers. Staple jersey tops and jackets combine militaristic elements with a casual urbanity.
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