yves saint
LAURENT

Balancing the transgressive worlds of power and sex, Stefano Pilati takes inspiration from 1970s photographer Robert Mapplethorpe in his swan song menswear collection for Yves Saint Laurent. Pilati's Fall 12 collection mirrors the stark, stylized nature of Mapplethorpe's photos through minimalist pieces cut in a sombre palette, alluding to the same hazily fetishistic undertones; alongside a graphic razor blade motif that lends a macabre edge to otherwise classic separates.

Pilati also fixates on leather; subtly infusing it on the lapels of a blazer, trimming the pockets of a stiff wool jacket or slicing it in panels on a cashmere sweater, before constructing slim trousers entirely out of plongé leather . The infatuation extends to accessories that elevate the collection's sensuality, with leather totes and gloves embossed with the house's iconic logo, alongside loafers embellished with cage-like brass bars that tie in to the collection's dark, fetishistic aesthetic.